Shirt making master class: Part one
Shirts are certainly having a moment. They’re popping up everywhere in many forms, from sleep wear to casual two piece sets, corporate wear to sophisticated evening wear, shirts really are the garment for all occasions. The construction process can seem some what daunting, so I’m going to take you through, step by step, starting at the very beginning, the planning and preparation phase.
One of the things about shirts being such a versatile garment is that they can be sewn up in a wide array of fabrics. Let’s take a look at the different substrates you could use, and how each should be approached to achieve the best result.
Choosing a Fabric
Cotton or Linen
Probably the most obvious choice when considering making a shirt would be a linen or cotton. Stable, little to no stretch (depending on the presence of spandex in the weave) easy to work with and lend themselves nicely to the focus points of a shirt such as the collar and cuffs. Things you might like to consider when choosing a linen or cotton for your shirt would be the weight, and the drape of the fabric. Linens and cottons can be anything from light to heavy weight, and you’re going to want to stick to a light to mid weight fabric for a shirt. Anything heavier will be difficult to work with when constructing the collar and won’t be comfortable to wear. Also consider the drape of the fabric, or how it falls. Are you after a crisp finish? If so, look for a fabric with little to no drape. After a more relaxed, floaty finish? Look for a fabric with good, fluid drape.
Linen and cotton will always provide good end results when shirt making and are my go to fabric base to work with for this kind or project.
Other things you will need to consider when working with a linen or cotton are needle type and size, and interfacing. Your needle size will be determined by the weight of your fabric. For lightweight wovens use a 70-80 universal, medium weight you will need an 80 universal needle. You can shop the collection of high quality Pfaff sewing machine needle here
When it comes to interfacing there are lots of options on the market and there are a couple of different ways to go. The two types of interfacing are fusible and sew in. Fusible interfacing bonds to the fabric using heat whereas sew in is, as the name suggests, sewn to the fabric. The Interfacing is used to provide body and structure for the collar, cuffs and button placket of the shirt. The weight of interfacing will be determined by your fabric. You want the interfaced areas to be slightly more structured than the rest of the garment, but not noticeably stiffer or too rigid. For this reason, I usually choose a lightweight interfacing. The choice between sew in or fusible is a personal one, fusing your interfacing before you start the sewing process makes for ease of construction and is often the first step in the instructions of a shirt pattern.
If working with a fabric that has a spandex component, your interfacing will stop the fabric from stretching where it is applied. This makes it easy to achieve crisp, clean corners and peaks where required whilst still taking advantage of the comfort factor stretch provides in the body and sleeves of the garment.
Before you start, be sure to pre wash your fabric so any shrinkage can occur prior to cutting. My advice is always to wash the fabric as you intend to wash it once made, prior to cutting.
Silk and Satin
There is nothing more luxurious than a silk shirt. Whilst the task might seem daunting, there are only a couple of considerations you need to take into account.
Your needle selection will be vital for sewing success! Choose a fine, universal needle, such as a 70 or 80 or even a microtex needle. Make sure you use good quality thread too.
When it comes to interfacing lightweight fabrics such as silk and satin, you can choose a very lightweight sew in or fusible interfacing or alternatively, use a layer or organza as a stabiliser. This works well for sheer fabrics too, where you wouldn’t want to see the interfacing but still require some added body for areas such as collars, cuffs and facings. Fabrics such as silk are delicate and heat sensitive so a sew in option is often preferable in this case. I find silk organza best for this as it has a lovely crispness but also softens when washed.
When cutting silk and satin be sure to use sharp pins or pattern weights to keep everything in place and on grain. I prefer weights as they don’t make holes in the fabric which can be an issue with satin finishes. Slippery fabrics move easily on the cutting table so the more weights or pins the better.
Lace
A less common choice for shirt making but one that creates an excellent end result.
Things to consider when working with a sheer fabric, as mentioned above are interfacing and needle selection. You will want to use a fine needle, a 70 or 80 universal, and an appropriate interfacing as it will be seen. Organza is the best option for interfacing sheer fabrics.
Rayon or Viscose
Rayon or viscose is a great choice if you’re after a more relaxed silhouette. These fabrics tend to have a lovely drape, which should be embraced, so look for a very lightweight interfacing and a fine needle for these fabrics.
Rayon has a tendency to shrink when wet, so be sure to pre wash and iron before cutting.
Choosing a pattern
Now you’ve got your fabric selection sorted, lets look at things to consider when choosing a pattern.
There are lots of shirt patterns on the market from both Indie pattern makers and the big 4
The top things to consider are:
Fit
How do you want your shirt to fit? Are you after something close fitted, or loose? Floaty or boxy? Your pattern will be the first thing that determines the finished look, backed up by your fabric choice.
Size
Check the sizing of the pattern against your measurements to ensure you will be able to achieve a good fit.
The key areas you will need to measure for shirt making are Bust, waist and hip
To measure your bust, place the tape around the fullest part of your bust. The waist measurement is your natural waist, typically just above your belly button. The hips should be measured at the widest point and include your bottom.
For accuracy, measure yourself in the underwear you would wear when wearing your shirt, different bras can make a lot of difference!
The measuring tape should be snug but not tight around your body
Remember, every single body is different, and you may not fit into the measurements of one particular size. You may need to grade between sizes to get the best fit. This will be less important for loose fitting styles but for fitted styles this step is key. Remember, one of the best things about sewing your own clothes is being able to custom fit them to your own body.
If your pattern has different options for dressmakers cup size, it is important to note that this in not related to your bra size. This refers to the difference between your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement.
The typical rule is a difference of 2 inches is a B cup, 3 inches is a C cup and 4 inches is a D cup. If there is no cup size offered the pattern is likely to have been drafted for a B cup, meaning a full bust adjustment may be required for larger busts.
A helpful tool is the finished garment measurements. This will tell you the measurements of the finished garment as opposed to the body it’s meant for. A great tip is to measure a garment from your wardrobe that has a fit similar to what you’re after and compare it to the finished garment measurements of the pattern you are considering.
Finishes
Whilst most shirts will follow pretty similar design principals, there will be subtle differences that will set one design apart from the other. Areas to look at are the collar, sleeves, cuffs and hem. The different features here will determine the overall look of the shirt.
Fabric selection
You will find suggested fabrics on the pattern envelope. This gives you a good guide as to what types of fabric would be suitable for the pattern at hand. Don’t be afraid to step outside the box! The fabric you use does not have to be listed as a suggested fabric, remember, they are just suggestions. Follow your creative instincts!
Now that you’ve selected a pattern, fabric and interfacing and pre washed everything, it’s time to cut your project!
Next time I’ll Walk you through constructing a collar as we continue our shirt making master class.
Until then, Happy sewing
Julia x