Sewing a scallop hem

Scallop hems have been popping up all over the place heading into summer. A scallop is such a classic detail, that can add an element of chic to a plain garment.

Scallops can be added to any exposed edge, such as hems of shorts, pants and dresses, sleeve edges and necklines.

Fabric types that work well for this project are those with some stability. Cotton, linen, silk dupion and taffeta would all work well. For this project I have chosen a mid weight linen. Pressing is crucial in creating a neat scallop hem, so choose a fabric that will hold well when pressed.

Step 1: Sew your garment as per instructions up until the hemming stage. In this case I am sewing a pair of shorts so have sewn the side seam and inner leg seam, as well as the crotch seam. Finish the raw edge of your hem. I have chosen to do this with an overlocking stitch but you could also double turn the edge and stitch

Step 2: Turn the edge where you wish to create your scallop upwards and press. Ensure right sides are together and you have enough depth for the size scallop you want to create. I recommend not making too deep a scallop as it can be difficult to turn right side out.

Step 3: Measure your hem area to determine the size of your scallops and how many will fit along the width. Use a rounded object ( a jar lid or tape measure works well) to trace out your scallops. Ensure each scallop meets the next at the tip.

Step 4: Carefully stitch along the scallop edge, putting your needle down to pivot at the points. I recommend using a slightly different shade thread to your fabric to make it easier in the next step not to snip your thread when trimming

Step 5: Carefully snip the excess fabric away, making sure not to cut your stitches. Snip right into the points, around the edges, and clip away any excess.

Step 6: Press into your scallops leaving them wrong side out, then turn right side out and press again

Step 7: Give your scallops a really good press from the outside. Place a small piece of hemming web inside each scallop and iron in place. Complete and final steps for your project, your scallop hem is complete!

Until next time, happy sewing x